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The "Pecking Order"
I am sure that you have
heard the term "pecking order" before. It
was originally coined to describe the hierarchy among
chickens in the barnyard, but it applies to us and
our birds as well.
In order to have a
happy, healthy relationship with your bird, it is
mandatory that you establish yourself as "top
bird" of the flock. Taking the role of dominant
"bird" in the house is not cruel - it is
very necessary to your bird's well-being that they
have certain limitations set for them. Dominant does
not mean that you are yelling and doling out
punishment, it simply means that you are the one in
charge, not your bird. Achieving dominance involves a
combination of voice, body language, actions,
consistence, and several "tricks."
Most parrots are flock
animals, and flocks have dominant and subordinate
members by necessity. The dominant bird takes the
highest perch in the tree, watches for danger, warns
the flock if he sees something suspicious, chases
away birds from other flocks, and remains "on
duty" most of the time. It is an exhausting job
under natural circumstances - no parrot should have
to be "top bird" of a human household, yet
many people unwittingly allow them to take this
position.
Height, or Tallest Bird is
Top Bird
Remember the part about
the dominant bird in the flock sitting in the top of
the tree, watching for predators and protecting his
flock? By placing your bird at
higher-than-your-eye-level, you are putting him in
the dominant bird position, with all of the stress
and responsibility that entails. It is amazing the
number of aggressive behaviors that will disappear by
simply lowering the bird and elevating the human!
Lowering the bird to a more subordinate height is one
of the "tricks" to keeping your "top
bird" spot. Bear this in mind when considering
cage placement, and when purchasing the large,
tree-type playgyms., or those that mount on the
cagetop. There are many of these that are over six
feet tall, which means that most people will be below
the eye level of the average bird when he is perched
on the gym.
The eye level issue is
another reason that you must take care when allowing
your bird on your shoulder. This places them on an
equal footing with you, since they are directly at
your eye level on your shoulder.
Wing Clipping
This is a controversial
subject, and while I am personally very much in favor
of wing-clipping for safety's sake, this section will
deal only with wing clipping to establish dominance.
A bird with a proper wing clip, that is, where the
flight feathers have been clipped to the point where
the bird cannot gain altitude in flight, but can
glide to the ground rather than falling like a little
feathered brick, will find itself more reliant on
it's human for a "ride." This works to
reinforce the human/bird bond because of the
increased time each is in contact with the other.
Also, birds, being "only human," will tend
to take the path of least resistance. Why learn to
step up on a finger if you can just fly away?
The "UP" Command
Teaching your bird to
step "UP" on your finger when requested may
be the most important lesson you ever teach him. A
bird who will step up on your finger on command,
without even thinking about it, is always
controllable, even under emergency situations.
Providing your bird is
reasonably tame, and not terrified of you, and will
willingly allow you to have your hands in his
presence, it is fairly simple to teach him to step
"UP." Extend your index finger so it forms
a nice, stable perch, and place it against your
bird's legs where they meet his body. Say
"UP" in a firm, clear voice, while
simultaneously pushing back against his legs. He will
either hop over your finger, step up onto your
finger, or fall over backward! Most birds will do one
of the first two. When he successfully steps
"UP," tell him what a good boy he is - and
it may be time for a special yummy, too. Once he gets
the hang of it, turn "UP" into a game - you
can have him climb the "finger ladder to the
stars."
The most important
lesson for the "UP" command is for you, not
your bird. ALWAYS use the command when asking him to
step up. Even if he willingly climbs on your finger
whenever he sees it, regardless of whether you
instruct him to, you should always use the
"UP" command. To do otherwise is allowing
him to make the decision, thus eroding your "top
bird" status. It is up to you to set limits for
him. Don't get lazy.
The second most
important lesson surrounding the "UP"
command is also for you. Always try to end the
sessions on a positive note. If your bird simply does
not want to step up today, make sure he does at least
once, then reward him, tell him he is a good boy, and
end the lesson. Do not allow him to believe that all
he has to do is misbehave and ignore you in order to
get his way! This is negative reinforcement and is
very hard to overcome.
Even if you teach your
bird nothing but the "UP" command, you will
have a much happier, healthier relationship with him.
I use the "UP" command to re-establish
control over my cockatiel all the time. Whenever he
gets just a little too big for his britches, he has
to step "UP" for me. I can take him from
being so overloaded that anyone who comes near him will
be perforated to completely calm with just a few ups!
Your Attitude
This may be one of the
most important categories to co-existing successfully
with your bird. Birds are some of the most empathetic
creatures I have ever seen. They are both your
emotional barometer and your emotional mirror, and
can sense things like fear, sadness, and very
importantly, hesitance, very accurately. It is this
aspect of their makeup that I like best, because my
birds force me to be a calmer, more even person. No
matter how hectic or frustrating work is, how awful
traffic was, or how idiotic I may think upper
management was that day, I know that I must erase
that hyper, stressed out part of me before I walk
through the front door, or the birds will react
badly.
Before working with
your bird, take a few moments to just sit down and
decompress. Take a few deep breaths, and bring your
energy level down a few notches. Hyperactivity is one
of the reasons a lot of birds react badly to
children. Thousands of years of evolution as a prey
animal is telling them that sudden moves = danger.
Do not be hesitant when
interacting with your bird. I can't tell you the
number of times people ask if they can hold one of
mine, then extend a curled up, quaking index finger
that they snatch away as soon as the bird leans
toward them! I always try to explain that this is
like having the company prankster yank your chair out
from under you when you are being seated! Use a firm
voice - you don't have to yell, but be clear and
strong. If you don't sound like you are in charge,
why should your bird assume you are in charge? Heck,
maybe this means HE is in charge!
If you want him to do
something, give him the command. This means that he
only is allowed on your shoulder when you ask him to
sit on your shoulder - it is your choice, not his.
Most cockatiels can safely spend time on a shoulder
without exhibiting dominance behavior, but some
cannot. You need to judge each bird individually, and
adjust your actions to them accordingly.
I view my birds as
children, and they ARE children in many ways. They
need someone to set limits for them, to care for
them, to tell them when something is right and when
it is wrong, to protect them from danger, and most
importantly, to love them. Understanding that love
and being in charge can co-exist is the first step to
being Top Bird.
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